Placing removable protection—or “trad” gear—isn’t rocket science, but it does require practice, thought, and skill. While myriad types of trad gear exist, we’ll focus on spring-loaded camming devices (aka “cams” or SLCDs) and nuts (aka “wedges”) because they’re by far the most common pieces we place. In this video, Marc explains the basics of how they—and tricams—are used.

While there are exceptions to this rule, always remember these priorities when placing gear:

Strength > Security > Ease of Removal

Strength

For every placement you make, you should strive for strength. If you’re clip...